When Goethe called Taormina a “piece of paradise on earth,” he may well have been describing Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea. Along one of Italy’s most picturesque bays on a private beach with exclusive cabanas, this former villa is just a courtesy shuttle ride away from Taormina’s town center and oozes glamour and old-world charm. The five-star property features 71 elegantly furnished guest rooms and suites. Guests can take in panoramic views from the heated outdoor swimming pool, revel in complimentary morning boat cruises, relish fresh seafood at Oliviero Restaurant, and relax with a soothing massage in their room or beneath an orange tree.
Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea is perched on an idyllic stretch of coast in Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, just off the toe of the Italian boot. Through the ages, the triangle-shaped island has been a crossroads of several ancient cultures, resulting in a fascinating place and a real jewel of the Mediterranean. Sicily boasts an abundant number of natural wonders (including Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano), archaeological UNESCO World Heritage Sites, popular beaches, idyllic islets, jaw-droppingly dramatic viewpoints, and gorgeous whitewashed towns. Furthermore, the island offers an all-year-round appeal thanks to a perfect blend of the mild climate, history, good cuisine, vibrant nightlife, and a warm atmosphere.
The hotel is housed in a private villa that was built by an aristocratic family in 1919. Following in the footsteps of celebrated 18th and 19th century writers and artists, English civil engineer Robert Trewhella was also drawn to the beauty of Taormina. Engaged by the Italian government to work on the construction of Italy’s railways, he directed the building of the Circumetnea Line that skirts Mount Etna. While in Sicily, Trewhella met and married an Englishwoman and built the beachfront Villa Sant’Andrea as their summer home. In the 1950s, Robert’s son Alfred transformed the villa into a hotel for jet-setters.
Because it was built as a private villa, Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea feels more like a private residence than a hotel, an ambiance that is further enhanced by the elegant, classic decor (think marble floors, antique furnishings, Baroque paintings). For most guests, the first impression of the hotel will be the small, intimate reception area, which features ceramic vases in Sicily’s traditional Moorish heads with impressive flower arrangements at its center. From here, a labyrinth of corridors leads to the guest rooms and suites, as well as to the public areas two floors below the reception area. The latter comprises a lovely lounge area, bar, small boutique, and stylish restaurant with an indoor dining room and outdoor terrace overlooking the beach.
There are 71 elegant rooms and suites, decorated in a style best summed up as Sicilian luxe, the majority of which look out over the beach and pristine waters of the bay. Because of the hotel’s history and its expansion through the years, the rooms are spread over five buildings and interconnected by various corridors at different levels. During my holiday, I was upgraded to an Executive Junior Suite, which featured a large bedroom with a dining table and sitting area, and an ensuite bathroom equipped with two sinks and a walk-in shower with mosaic tiled walls. The room’s highlight was a large, flower-filled balcony overlooking the bay, where one could while away the hours watching the waves lap and the boats bob.
Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea is set on a picturesque pebble beach dominated by a craggy headland. The stretch of immaculately raked beach in front of the hotel is private, featuring dozens of comfortable sun-loungers for guests’ exclusive use. The hotel beach also boasts six luxurious cabanas, accommodating up to four people per cabana and stylishly furnished with plump sofas, well-stocked mini-bars, tented verandas, and sun-loungers. Each cabana also has its own dedicated waiter, who is on hand to arrange anything from relaxing massages to a fresh fish lunch, prepared with passion by the hotel’s chef, Aniello Razzano.
The hotel has one dining venue only, Oliviero Restaurant, which offers indoor/outdoor waterfront seating and serves all meals daily, including complimentary breakfast (until 11 am). Led by Chef Agostino d’Angelo, the venue focuses on the Mediterranean’s finest seasonal produce, with a particular emphasis on Sicilian specialties, such as Sicilian black pig ham served with scented Malvasia prickly pears. A highlight is fish plucked straight from the bay and grilled to perfection, especially when preceded by a cool aperitivo at the adjacent terrace bar. With Sicily’s striking cliffs as a backdrop, guests at Oliviero restaurant can indulge in delicate homemade risotto, or go light with colorful salads or delicate homemade pasta at lunchtime.
Things to know
* Although the beach section in front of the property is exclusively reserved for hotel guests, including a secluded area equipped with luxurious cabanas, the beach itself is not private. Also, keep in mind that the beach is not a sandy beach but a pebble beach, which is common in this part of the Mediterranean.
* The resort’s main draw is its beach (where guests will spend most of their time), but are some wellness and leisure facilities as well, albeit on a small scale: the pool is tiny and the spa is small (and has no sauna).
* As the resort faces east, there is no view of the sunset (although early risers can catch stunning sunrises). Also, the property is backed by a rocky outcrop and due to its orientation, it’s in the shade by later afternoon in summer (or mid-afternoon in spring and autumn).
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Sicily is from May to June or September to October. These late spring and early fall months are both considered shoulder seasons, and offer comfortable temperatures and mostly sunny days, ideal for temple gazing, beach lazing or hiking. If you book a July or August vacation, you’ll have to deal with lots of crowds, high prices and the hottest temperatures of the year.