Following months of extensive renovation, the modern Japanese restaurant by acclaimed chef Tetsuya Wakuda has finally reopened at a new location (adjacent to its former space) within Marina Bay Sands. Besides the intimate chef’s table omakase experience that Waku Ghin is best known for, the expanded grounds also come teeming with fresh surprises. Step through a cherry wood door, and be greeted by the dramatic two-tonne stone sculpture sourced from Shikoku, Japan. Continue down the darkened corridor to reach The Bar, a recent addition to the revamped restaurant.
It’s easy to understand the hype that surrounds Waku Ghin. After all, Chef Tetsuya embraces a quintessentially Japanese ethos of diving into the essence of every ingredient a philosophy that, in my opinion, can do no wrong. From sourcing to farming and harvesting everything from greens to caviar, he has forged close relationships with suppliers all over the world, whom he personally visits to check on the harvest and also the cultivation process. Most Japanese (or at least, Japanese-inspired) restaurants in Singapore ship their ingredients from Japan’s Tsukiji Market, but Waku Ghin favors Chef Tetsuya’s hometown of Shizuoka, known for its fresh seafood and proximity to Mount Fuji. His passion for quality produce extends to Tasmania, where he’s been a brand ambassador since 1994. According to general manager Timothy Lim, it’s where the environment is one of the most pristine in the world – a prime canvas for agriculture. This is why diners can expect the degustation menu to vary daily, as it depends on the availability of fresh, seasonal produce.
The place it was a celebratory meal, and I decided to check out the revamped two-Michelin-starred Waku Ghin by Tetsuya Wakuda in Marina Bay Sands. And if you are wondering, I didn’t go for the 10-seater Chef’s Table with the Omakase Chef’s menu which needs to be reserved way in advance. Instead, I went for the walk-in-only Bar Dining which is an informal and more casual way to enjoy the Waku Ghin experience.
The Bar Dining area spots a causal dining section and a bar counter setting which is ideal for 2 persons. I managed to snag a table at the bar.
The Food for the bar dining area offers a choice of both the Omakase Chef’s menu as well as the a la carte food menu that features Chef Tetsuya’s cuisine in the form of pasta, donburis, indulgent bar bites, and desserts from Patisserie Platine.
For a start, I had the Toasted Sandwich of Truffle & Parma Ham. One thing to note is that portions of the dishes are generally quite small. I enjoyed this sandwich which spots a nice hint of truffle aroma.
Settle down at the counter or grab a seat at the intimate dine-in area – either offer a relatively affordable introduction to what the famed kitchen has to offer. To start, try a cocktail, made using the sweetest produce the season has to offer. Spring might see Roku gin mixed with honey lime from Shizuoka for a juicy burst in every sip. From the a la carte menu, assemble a full meal from choices of fresh catch, bar bites, and sweet treats. Wild-caught chutoro carpaccio comes paired with a bitter salad of endives and onions to lend sharp contrast; while a fried beef tenderloin sandwich, glazed with katsu sauce, offers a meaty bite. And while fish and chips might sound out of place, chef Tetsuya creates a version that is light and crisp and certainly one worth ordering. Accompanying the plate are a handful of chips – crunchy and fluffy all at once – made using a two-day process of brining, steaming, drying, then double-frying.
But gourmands looking for sheer indulgence know to grab a seat at the exclusive 10-seater Chef’s Table. Dishes to land on the imposing cherry wood counter table might include a delightful egg flan or chawanmushi crowned with shreds of hairy crab; sayori or half-beak fish sweetened with fresh strawberries and pomegranate; and Korean abalone, gently steamed for over eight hours, and served with risoni for a soothing porridge-like texture. Cooked plates of charcoal-grilled sea perch and wagyu, prepped sukiyaki-style, also help showcase the best of seasonal finds that come in through the restaurant’s doors four times a week.
Save space for desserts the cakes are quite good, which in my opinion impresses me more than the savory dishes. I was led to a cozy drawing room with a view of the Marina Bay Sands skyline, and this is where dessert awaits. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, you’ll want to make some space for the Japanese musk melon with cointreau granita and fromage blanc sorbet. The ever tireless Chef Tetsuya oversees each harvest and only a handful of melons make the cut – even if they are specially grown for the Japanese royalty. The wild strawberries (sourced from Spain, no less), nestled on a bed of orange blossom honey cream, are pleasantly fragrant. All in all, these creations by Executive Pastry Chef Yasushi Ishino offer a nice flourish to the palate, easing you into a food coma. Ah, bliss.
